The Sahara desert is made for lovers of extreme hiking, or for lovers of sublime natural scenery. Morocco has the great advantage of having a part of the Sahara desert on its territory. It is also surrounded by the Atlas Mountains, for a surprising mix of scenery. Ouarzazate is considered as the gateway to the desert, for breathtaking discoveries. The particularity of the Sahara desert in Morocco is the abundance of oases, for places of freshness and very soothing.

To discover the Sahara desert, you have to leave from Ouarzazate in 4×4, but there is also the possibility of small ballads on camelback for the bravest. The discovery of the Sahara desert is then done with the valley of Drâa. This river irrigates palm groves and oases, before ending its course in the desert. Then it is the direction of the erg Lihoudi, or the erg Chebbi, to see these extraordinary dunes which announce the desert of sahara. Villages like Merzouga or Chegaga are crossed, to approach the Moroccans who live in these arid and not very prosperous regions. Excursions to the desert are mostly done over a minimum of 3 days, with a bivouac under the tent, as the Berbers, the local population, do. It is also an opportunity to taste typical Moroccan dishes, prepared in the pure Moroccan tradition. The meal will necessarily end with mint tea served in the traditional way. Spending the night in the desert is an unforgettable experience, because it offers a spectacle of beauty. A nice way to imagine the life of the nomads, who live according to the seasons in this mysterious desert.

The visits of the Sahara desert are done from various hotels in the city of Ouarzazate. The trekking tours are appreciated by experienced sportsmen, for walks in the sublime Sahara desert. The prices of these excursions vary according to the duration, the type, and the mode of accommodation. The visit of the desert can also be done with an accommodation in a Riad, or in a hotel, for more comfort. Various levels are suggested, and some excursions are possible with children, over a few hours. The choice is à la carte, for a day or a week. The Sahara desert within the reach of all, this is also what the beautiful country of Morocco offers.

 

It is in the High Atlas that the Todgha gorges are located. Its walls are famous and appreciated by lovers of climbing or rock climbing. This territory is that of Berber nomads, who come to spend the summer in the cool after a winter in the desert. The Todgha gorges extend over about 20 km, with a maximum width of 2 km, for a height of 300 meters. These wonders are located in the heart of an oasis, in the valley of Todgha, composed of various kasbahs and ksars. At the bottom of the Todgha gorges flows the Todgha river, where fish is not allowed to be caught. However, this source can be used freely by all. A legend even says that one of these springs is supposed to cure sterility in women. Among the legends linked to this superb site, a goat would have escaped the sacrifice years ago, and has been living in the gorges since.

On the road to the Todgha gorges are some towns and villages, such as Tamtatouttche or Aït Hani. It is then possible to find accommodations, including guest houses arranged in the pure Moroccan tradition. A track allows to discover this breathtaking site. The most adventurous can ask a guide to take them to the heights for a moment of intense climbing. In the surrounding villages, it is possible to rent equipment for the climbers. The track is a delight for 4×4 and motorcycles. This wonderful scenery has inspired many directors, and this dominant red color is unique. The Todgha gorges are really fascinating, and refreshing when the temperatures reach their peak.

To have the pleasure of discovering the Todgha Gorge, excursions and tours are offered. It is possible to stay on the track, or to climb, provided you are well equipped. Some walls are perfectly studied and marked, others are still virgin. It is always recommended to check the weather forecast, because in case of storm the water shows very quickly at the bottom of the gorges. The Todgha gorges are a real treasure, not to be missed during a stay in the region of Tinghir. The palm grove along the river is one of the most beautiful in Morocco. A trip to this region also allows you to discover more about the Berber culture. The inhabitants are in any case delighted to explain their way of life, or to welcome tourists who wish to know their country better.

 

The waterfalls of Ouzoud are located about 150 km from Marrakech. This island of coolness is very appreciated by the inhabitants of Marrakech, especially in summer when the temperatures climb happily. The waterfalls of Ouzoud are the most beautiful in Morocco, a unique and splendid site. Ouzoud is aptly named, as it means "sweet", and it reaches a height of 110 meters in an unexpectedly green area. Olive trees, bougainvilleas and freshness are at the rendezvous, with for spectators the monkeys of the mountains. But to reach the site of Ouzoud, it is necessary to count 2h30 of way under the Moroccan sun. The show at the arrival is worth it, and the most beautiful waterfall of the North African region is waiting for you. As a bonus, a permanent rainbow above the waterfalls.

Once you arrive at Ouzoud, perfectly landscaped and shaded paths lead to the Ouzoud waterfalls. There, the show is worth it, with waterspouts coming from the sky, which crash on the rocks. It is then allowed to bathe in the clear water, or to enjoy the place in one of the gargotes which are at the edge of water. The macaque monkeys watch us with malice, for unforgettable photos and memories. It is also possible to see the waterfalls of Ouzoud on board a small boat, some of which have evocative names like "France". The guides take the tourists to the source of the Ouzoud waterfalls. It is then the occasion of a superb walk in the freshness, but also the possibility of discovering an old local activity, that of the olives.

The waterfalls of Ouzoud are a must during a stay in the surroundings of Marrakech. The town of Ouzoud welcomes holidaymakers for a day or a night, with guest houses to discover the culture of the Moroccans. Excursions can be organized directly from Marrakech, with prices varying according to the guides. A minimum of 35 euros is required for a day trip to the Ouzoud waterfalls from Marrakech. The tour includes the trip, the walk and the crossing of the river in an artisanal ferry. A traditional meal will also be served, to taste typical Moroccan recipes such as couscous, or tagine. As for drinks and additional drinks such as mint tea, it will be at the expense of the customer. It is necessary to be equipped with good shoes to be able to borrow the way leading to the cascades, and it is not necessary to forget the bathing suit.

 Waiters weave like hummingbirds between the crowded tables, dressed in white collared shirts and thin black pants. Plates land in front of us, stacked precariously with fried calamari and grilled shrimp, bowls of bubbling split pea soup and a whole grouper smothered in herbs. We're at Vista Mar, a small seaside restaurant in El Jebha, a port town in northern Morocco nestled between two hills and facing the Mediterranean Sea. From our table, we look out over the water, where a group of lanky teenagers dive off the bow of one of the larger boats and race to shore. Wooden fishing boats are moored along the seawall, while small launches with pink and orange umbrellas ferry bathers and sunbathers to the small coves along the coast. The sounds, the sights, the smells; it takes a minute to remember that we are in Morocco.

Once our plates are cleared and the lunch crowd dies down, a strong coffee sweetened with honey arrives, and we pull out our card. My friend Anouar Akrouh and I have already driven three and a half hours east of Tangier - past the white city of Tetouan and the glitzy beach resorts of Cabo Negro, past the small beach towns of Ouad Lao and Steha. We follow the N16 road for a week-long trip to a part of the country known as the Rif, a strip of northeastern Morocco loosely bounded by Tangier to the west, the Mediterranean to the north, the Moulouya Valley near the Moroccan-Algerian border to the east, and the Ouergha River to the south. The region is a surprising mix of mountainous, coastal and desert landscapes.

My fascination with this part of my adopted country - where I've spent about six months a year for nearly a decade - comes as much from what I don't know as from what I do know. The Rif doesn't have the sprawling medinas of Fez, the surf scene of Essaouira, or the bustling spice and craft markets of Marrakech. If you ask around, most western Moroccans will vaguely describe it as wild and untamed. They might mention its famous tendency toward independence, which has led to rebellions against French, Spanish, and Arab colonizers over the centuries. But if pushed, most of them will admit that they have never been there.

It wasn't until I met Anouar in Tangier two years ago that I began to get a clearer picture of the region. Anouar, who was born in the port city of Al Hoceima, told me stories about the incredible beauty of the Rif, about the quiet coves and mountain gorges where majestic cedar forests glisten with snow in winter and bloom with rockrose and wild lavender in summer. He now runs an architectural firm in Tangier, but returns to the Rif with his camera whenever he has a break from his work.

Years of isolation - due to the rugged mountains of the Rif - have allowed the region to retain its unique Berber heritage. Unlike the rest of the country, its colonial imprint is more Spanish than French, and its dominant language, Tarifit, is different from the Moroccan Arabic spoken in the rest of the country. While the western part of the country grows a variety of fruits and vegetables, the main crop here has long been cannabis. Anouar explains that there is a persistent local belief that the previous king, Hassan II, actively ignored the Rif in retaliation for his earlier attempts at independence. However, the current king, Mohammed VI, has worked to eliminate this mutual distrust by investing heavily in the region. As a result, modern infrastructure has begun to arrive in recent years, making part of the unspoiled coastline easily accessible for the first time.

After sitting down with Anouar and looking at his photos, I realized that I had to make the trip myself. With the new paved roads and small hotels popping up, it seemed like the right time to discover this often neglected part of Morocco. So we decided to do it, armed with my curiosity, Anouar's expertise and camera, and a solid Land Rover.

We leave the highway and follow a dirt road towards the sea. Farms dot the landscape, and as I roll down my window, I can hear families in the fields harvesting wheat, chatting over the sound of their sickles. We park the car and walk to a small cliff overlooking the village of Cala Iris, about 40 miles east of El Jebha, and watch the setting sun paint the sky pink, then purple.

It is dark when we reach Al Hoceima, Anouar's hometown. The city has been hit by three major earthquakes in the last three decades, which destroyed most of the old traditional adobe houses and stores. New buildings have sprung up in their place, including several apartment towers overlooking the bay, where a Spanish fortress stands on a small island off the coast. After dropping off our bags at the Mercure Quemado Resort Hotel, we buy fresh shrimp and some mullet from a fishmonger. At one of the lively restaurants on the pier, we hand the seafood to a waiter, and 15 minutes later it comes out, grilled to perfection and served with tangy beets and a white bean salad.

At daybreak, the cafes are filled with locals enjoying cumin omelets and small loaves of bread in the shape of a disc. Anouar and I meet Mohammed, a childhood friend who has returned to Al Hoceima to work as a guide. For a short time, Mohammed worked as a fisherman in the south and as a barista in Tangier, but the lure of the region's beaches and nature brought him back home. We hop in his car to explore Al Hoceima's national park and wildlife refuge, which spans 185 square miles.

Lunch in the small village of Adouz is the highlight of our day. In a long, narrow room, we gather around a low table, alongside several villagers Mohammed knows, digging into a large tagine of slow-roasted chicken with our hands. We sip glasses of leben, a lightly fermented buttermilk, cool and rich. After lunch, a six-year-old child, the son of one of the villagers, leads us through the town's paths. "We call him the mayor," his father laughs as the boy walks through Adouz repeating local gossip and pointing to the large mosque that Islamic scholars built in the 14th century.

There are few things more enjoyable than a late afternoon swim in the Mediterranean. Mohammed takes us to Badis Beach, one of his favorite beaches. It's famous for a massive fort, the Peñón de Vélez de la Gomera, which appears to rise out of the sea but is actually connected to the shore by a narrow isthmus. "This is Spain," Anouar tells me, pointing to the fort, "and it's the shortest international border in the world." This small acre of rock, along with a few small islands and the contested cities of Ceuta and Melilla, are the last European territories in mainland Africa. As the three of us head to the beach, I see a Spanish flag draped over one of the turrets and a few armed soldiers. The border is marked by a navy blue fishing line stretched across the small spit of sand that connects the two countries. As the day comes to an end, we dive into the cool water and swim under the imposing fortress.

Then we bid farewell to the Mediterranean Sea and the N16 highway and drive southeast towards the Algerian border. Our next stop is to visit Younès Ismaili, an architect and old friend of Anouar's family, who has promised us a glimpse of his new ecolodge, L'Écogîte Arnane, which is located just outside the town of Tafoughalt, in the province of Berkane. We arrive in a wide valley, filled with terraced olive trees, that looks nothing like the coastal farms and salty breezes of yesterday. The air here is dry and fragrant.

"Almost all the ingredients come from my farm," says Younès. We sit on low benches around a small wooden table. Outside, there are orchards and miles of hiking and horseback riding trails. He brings us chopped vegetables simmered with raisins and spices and a tender chicken tagine. It's real home cooking, balanced and delicious.

After a breakfast of fried eggs and rghaif, a flaky Moroccan pancake topped with local honey and jam, we return to pick up Younès. The road takes us through cork and pine forests before descending into the valley of Zegzel, in the Beni Snassen mountains. We soon see a one-story farmhouse, built of smooth slate blocks of an almost indigo color. Younès has taken us to visit Nordine, a farmer he met years ago while hiking in these mountains, who invites us to lunch of tender artichoke hearts filled with spices and roasted lamb falling off the bone. Afterwards, we walk through the countryside, discovering open cisterns that collect and distribute spring water through a series of rills, or channels. Younès sees my fascination. "Are you interested in water?" he asks with a smile. As if answering a riddle, he adds, "Then maybe you should go to the desert. Maybe you should go to Figuig."

Only one road leads to Figuig. It's a flat stretch of highway that runs along the Algerian border, cutting through desert scrub and past nomads herding their cattle. This is the border, with a military checkpoint about every 50 miles; the officers, seeing that we are tourists, wave us through. About 350 miles south of the Mediterranean coast, Figuig was once a famous crossroads where caravans loaded up before heading into the Sahara. Today, the town is best known for its dates and as part of a Moroccan expression: Foug Figuig, which means "to go beyond the great".

At dawn, a sea of dense palm trees stretches before us. From our vantage point above the oasis, we can see the mountain ridges that surround the city, protecting it from the relentless desert. As the sun rises, it illuminates the clusters of sand buildings and emerald pools between the trees. The frogs croak their morning song, joined by a single solitary howl.

By mid-morning, Anouar and I are having tea with a farmer who has invited us to see his fields. What looked like a dense palm grove from above is actually a lush network of plots of wheat, zucchini, mint and tomatoes fed by a network of streams that carry water from a natural basin to the crops below. Oasis towns like this one have largely disappeared. With paved roads, refrigerated trucks and airplanes, the old trade routes and resting places are no longer needed. As we walk around Figuig, we hear the sound of cyclists navigating the narrow, ancient streets of the city and pass men and women still wearing the traditional white robes.

Over lunch at the Oasis Inn, an airy bed-and-breakfast in a traditional adobe riad, we chat with Fatima and her sister, the women who run it. They emphatically explain that they don't get many visitors, and even fewer since the pandemic, but those who do come are curious and respectful and have made an extra effort to visit this fragile desert ecosystem. When the temperature rises above 100 degrees, Anouar and I follow the directions of the farmer we met earlier and head for a swimming spot. Two young men are already there, slowly kicking their feet against the flow of the constantly running water. We are five days away and over 600 miles from Tangier. "I didn't expect to find this," Anouar says with a smile. I know he's talking about this unlikely swimming hole in the middle of a fading oasis town surrounded by desert, but he could be referring to the whole trip. I nod in agreement.

 Many destinations are interesting, but few are truly intriguing, because intrigue requires mystery, something fascinating but not immediately obvious. Fez, the oldest of Morocco's imperial cities, fits this description perfectly: It is hypnotic, idiosyncratic, and often bewildering. Described as the "Athens of Africa", Fez has consolidated its status as the cultural, spiritual and intellectual capital of the country over the millennia. The heart of the city remains the ninth-century Fez el Bali (Old Fez), which, along with Fez el-Jdid (New Fez), founded under the Marinid dynasty in 1276, forms the Fez medina, one of the largest car-free urban areas in the world.

The medina is like a secret club that can only be joined by a knowledgeable local guide: It's almost impossible to find your way around the complex tangle of thousands of narrow alleys, paths, unmarked doorways and dead ends on your own. Even seemingly simple plans can become confusing when you find yourself in a maze of blind alleys and turns. Dead ends appear where there should be traffic lanes, and on my own visit, moving around on my own was both fascinating and frustrating, as I knew Fez had so much to show.

Trying to explore Fez alone is a common tourist mistake, our tour guide told us, and the main reason many people never discover the true magic of this ancient and complicated city - a sentiment echoed by nearly everyone I spoke with who lives and works in the labyrinthine medina. "Fez el Bali really does make you feel like you're back in the Middle Ages, without cars or motorcycles," says Jaouad Lahani, who was born in Old Fez and has dedicated his life to sharing the wonders of his city with visitors as a guide, currently with Kensington Tours. 

The medina is only accessible on foot, "and the way to transport goods is still carts or mules," says Khalid Founounou, a native of Fez, a journalist with Sada Fez, and a distinguished guide with Plan-It Morocco. "It really takes four days to do it properly."

The lack of modern modes of transportation coupled with the litany of must-see sites also means it's a place that requires a lot of walking. To add to the complexity, signage here is more of a relic than a resource. If opting for a guided tour is a decidedly easier way to learn about and visit the myriad attractions-among them the Bou Inania Madrasa (one of the few mosques that non-Muslims can access in Morocco), the Zawiya of Moulay Idris II (a shrine and tombs), the public gardens of Bou Jeloud, the library of al-Qarawiyyin University (considered one of the oldest in the world), and the Shouara tannery - going it alone requires a lot of planning and patience.

Exploring Old Fez like a tour guide

Of course, it is not always possible for every traveler to hire a guide for a few days. If you are determined (or simply destined by circumstances) to go alone, be aware that you will probably get lost at some point, and that's okay. Guides say to expect it, not fear it. 

"It takes a lot of time to learn the secrets of the medina, even for residents," says Founounou. He recommends entering the medina through the Blue Gate (Bab Bou Jeloud) and following Tala'a Kebira to sample local food and daily life, or following Talaa Saghira Street for shopping. Once you have a basic knowledge of these main avenues, it becomes easier to explore the smaller streets.

And then there are the souks of the medina, which are destinations in their own right. "Our markets represent the true spirit of Fez and the livelihoods of those who live there," says Kensington Tours guide Ismail Bouraqqadi, who was born in Fez and has more than 20 years of experience in tourism. "You'll see all kinds of goods, from intricate carpets made by Berber artisans and high-quality leather pieces to handcrafted kaftans and djellabas and traditional Balgha [Moroccan slippers]." Like everything else in Fez el Bali, shopping can be a bit chaotic - people bustle around the stalls to negotiate the best prices, vendors shout to get the attention of passersby - but that's part of the excitement.

In the tanners' district, artisans still use traditional methods to turn animal hides into bags, poufs and shoes. If you've only seen one image of Fez, chances are it's of the Chouara tannery - the city's oldest and largest leather manufacturing company - which emits a pungent smell and produces characteristically bright colors. Don't miss the (very different) aromas of Souk al-Attarine, the spice and perfume market near Madrasa Al Attarine, where bins of fragrant spices, rosewater and jasmine overwhelm the senses. The bustling market at R'Cif Square is where locals go to buy fresh fruits and vegetables, seafood and meat. Vendors also offer olives, sweets and traditional snacks.

Where to eat in Old Fez

Travelers looking to sample the flavors of Fez will find many superb restaurants in the medina. In the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter, Dar Hatim is a family affair where you can taste the love in the chicken pastilla and lamb tagine prepared by chef Karina Bouaa. (If the prospect of wandering through notoriously winding alleys on an empty stomach doesn't sound particularly appealing, her husband Fouad will be happy to escort you.) Dar Roumana and Restaurant Ouliya are two other outstanding options for Moroccan cuisine and warm hospitality. For something a little more contemporary, Riad Le Jardin des Biehn's Fez Café is located in a quiet garden with colorful decor and offers a menu that changes daily. For fine Moroccan dishes accompanied by local wines, consider making a reservation at Nur, which comes highly recommended by Founounou.

Where to stay in Fez

Staying in Fez is an opportunity to be surrounded by the pulsating energy of daily life and experience a riad, a traditional Moroccan house centered around a courtyard. It doesn't get more luxurious than Riad Fez, an award-winning Relais & Châteaux that beautifully blends heritage and contemporary comfort, all complemented by picturesque views of the Atlas Mountains. Suites draped in damask and zellij tiles, as well as an Ottoman-style spa, give the Karawan Riad a sumptuous character and a sense of serenity not often found in the chaos of the city walls.

Local guides I spoke with noted that hotels just outside the medina offer peace and quiet without sacrificing proximity to the heart of Fez. La Maison Bleue is a classic guesthouse with a relaxed atmosphere and a restaurant that serves recipes passed down from generation to generation. We booked a suite at the Faraj Palace and found it to be a charming and luxurious place to relax and very accessible to all the main sites.

Ultimately, even if you have a guide for the entire duration of your stay in Fez, there will likely be a few meals or unscheduled time to wander around on your own. The possibility of taking a wrong turn certainly exists, but don't let that deter you from doing some exploring without a guide. Lahani suggests carrying a piece of paper with your hotel and street address. Always ask older locals, who are more likely to know the area. 

And remember: A straight line may be the shortest route between two points, but it's rarely the most memorable.

 

Looking for a destination for your next vacation? Morocco is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world. Its idyllic setting with its beautiful desert landscapes is perfect to escape. Moreover, these sumptuous settings are frequently requested for film shoots. Discover the backstage of cult films by visiting the film studio in Ouarzazate.

The city of Ouarzazate, the Moroccan Hollywood

Located in the center of northern Morocco, the city of Ouarzazate offers direct access to the Sahara desert, hence its nickname of "the gateway to the desert". Offering a quiet and serene setting, Ouarzazate is much appreciated by tourists looking for a change of scenery. But it is not only tourists who are interested in the beautiful landscapes of the Saharan desert. Indeed, film professionals from around the world come to Morocco to get beautiful shots in authentic settings. In addition to documentaries, you must have already seen Ouarzazate in American or French films.

Over the years, a real film industry has been built in Ouarzazate. Like Los Angeles, Ouarzazate is now considered the Hollywood of Morocco, and even the Hollywood of Africa. A trip to Ouarzazate is the ideal opportunity to visit the film studio and the film sets used for the production of cult films.

The cult films shot in the film studio in Ouarzazate

The beauty of the desert and the Moroccan sites has long been used for cinema and television. Making a feature film in Morocco was already common in the days of black and white cinema, notably with the film Casablanca (1942). Over the years, the number of films produced and shot in Morocco has grown. On the one hand, there are the big Hollywood productions by the big American studios such as Walt Disney Company, Universal Studio and Warner Bros. On the other hand, there are the independent films of the new generation of directors.

Among the cult films shot in Ouarzazate are Lawrence of Arabia, Gladiator and Asterix and Obelix Mission Cleopatra. Depending on the film genre, the landscape adapts to the needs and can even be combined with special effects. This cinematographic spectacle is notably visible in "Dune", a science-fiction film directed by the filmmaker Denis Villeneuve.

Atlas Studios, the reference film studio in Morocco

Faced with the craze of foreign production companies to shoot in Morocco, a Moroccan film studio was founded in 1983. It is about Atlas Studios which offers grandiose sets to welcome the shootings of feature films and series in Morocco. This audiovisual production company has provided a location for Hollywood productions such as The Mummy (1990), by writer and director Stephen Sommers. Its film catalog also includes the blockbusters of director and producer Ridley Scott, namely Gladiator and Kingdom of Heaven.

On the television side, this production studio has offered filming locations for series like Games of Thrones and Atlantis. This film city that has allowed great directors to create magic on the big screen is open to the public. It's another way for moviegoers to rediscover films outside of theatrical and Netflix screenings. Also, come and deepen your knowledge of the seventh art in life-size sets.

Ksar Ighnda, the luxury hotel to stay in Ouarzazate

Are you looking for a hotel to stay at during your trip to the film locations? After the guided tour of the film production studios and other attractions, you need a place to rest in peace and quiet. To this end, the Riad Ksar Ighnda hotel located at the foot of the Atlas Mountains and at the gateway to the desert is recommended for its warm and friendly atmosphere. Come and enjoy a tailor-made stay in a sumptuous and refined setting with a complete service.

Our charming hotel offers rooms and suites with a unique decor inspired by Moroccan art deco. A room service is available to meet the needs of our customers. After your excursions, you can enjoy delicious traditional dishes and relax in the hotel's wellness center.