Many destinations are interesting, but few are truly intriguing, because intrigue requires mystery, something fascinating but not immediately obvious. Fez, the oldest of Morocco's imperial cities, fits this description perfectly: It is hypnotic, idiosyncratic, and often bewildering. Described as the "Athens of Africa", Fez has consolidated its status as the cultural, spiritual and intellectual capital of the country over the millennia. The heart of the city remains the ninth-century Fez el Bali (Old Fez), which, along with Fez el-Jdid (New Fez), founded under the Marinid dynasty in 1276, forms the Fez medina, one of the largest car-free urban areas in the world.
The medina is like a secret club that can only be joined by a knowledgeable local guide: It's almost impossible to find your way around the complex tangle of thousands of narrow alleys, paths, unmarked doorways and dead ends on your own. Even seemingly simple plans can become confusing when you find yourself in a maze of blind alleys and turns. Dead ends appear where there should be traffic lanes, and on my own visit, moving around on my own was both fascinating and frustrating, as I knew Fez had so much to show.
Trying to explore Fez alone is a common tourist mistake, our tour guide told us, and the main reason many people never discover the true magic of this ancient and complicated city - a sentiment echoed by nearly everyone I spoke with who lives and works in the labyrinthine medina. "Fez el Bali really does make you feel like you're back in the Middle Ages, without cars or motorcycles," says Jaouad Lahani, who was born in Old Fez and has dedicated his life to sharing the wonders of his city with visitors as a guide, currently with Kensington Tours.
The medina is only accessible on foot, "and the way to transport goods is still carts or mules," says Khalid Founounou, a native of Fez, a journalist with Sada Fez, and a distinguished guide with Plan-It Morocco. "It really takes four days to do it properly."
The lack of modern modes of transportation coupled with the litany of must-see sites also means it's a place that requires a lot of walking. To add to the complexity, signage here is more of a relic than a resource. If opting for a guided tour is a decidedly easier way to learn about and visit the myriad attractions-among them the Bou Inania Madrasa (one of the few mosques that non-Muslims can access in Morocco), the Zawiya of Moulay Idris II (a shrine and tombs), the public gardens of Bou Jeloud, the library of al-Qarawiyyin University (considered one of the oldest in the world), and the Shouara tannery - going it alone requires a lot of planning and patience.
Exploring Old Fez like a tour guide
Of course, it is not always possible for every traveler to hire a guide for a few days. If you are determined (or simply destined by circumstances) to go alone, be aware that you will probably get lost at some point, and that's okay. Guides say to expect it, not fear it.
"It takes a lot of time to learn the secrets of the medina, even for residents," says Founounou. He recommends entering the medina through the Blue Gate (Bab Bou Jeloud) and following Tala'a Kebira to sample local food and daily life, or following Talaa Saghira Street for shopping. Once you have a basic knowledge of these main avenues, it becomes easier to explore the smaller streets.
And then there are the souks of the medina, which are destinations in their own right. "Our markets represent the true spirit of Fez and the livelihoods of those who live there," says Kensington Tours guide Ismail Bouraqqadi, who was born in Fez and has more than 20 years of experience in tourism. "You'll see all kinds of goods, from intricate carpets made by Berber artisans and high-quality leather pieces to handcrafted kaftans and djellabas and traditional Balgha [Moroccan slippers]." Like everything else in Fez el Bali, shopping can be a bit chaotic - people bustle around the stalls to negotiate the best prices, vendors shout to get the attention of passersby - but that's part of the excitement.
In the tanners' district, artisans still use traditional methods to turn animal hides into bags, poufs and shoes. If you've only seen one image of Fez, chances are it's of the Chouara tannery - the city's oldest and largest leather manufacturing company - which emits a pungent smell and produces characteristically bright colors. Don't miss the (very different) aromas of Souk al-Attarine, the spice and perfume market near Madrasa Al Attarine, where bins of fragrant spices, rosewater and jasmine overwhelm the senses. The bustling market at R'Cif Square is where locals go to buy fresh fruits and vegetables, seafood and meat. Vendors also offer olives, sweets and traditional snacks.
Where to eat in Old Fez
Travelers looking to sample the flavors of Fez will find many superb restaurants in the medina. In the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter, Dar Hatim is a family affair where you can taste the love in the chicken pastilla and lamb tagine prepared by chef Karina Bouaa. (If the prospect of wandering through notoriously winding alleys on an empty stomach doesn't sound particularly appealing, her husband Fouad will be happy to escort you.) Dar Roumana and Restaurant Ouliya are two other outstanding options for Moroccan cuisine and warm hospitality. For something a little more contemporary, Riad Le Jardin des Biehn's Fez Café is located in a quiet garden with colorful decor and offers a menu that changes daily. For fine Moroccan dishes accompanied by local wines, consider making a reservation at Nur, which comes highly recommended by Founounou.
Where to stay in Fez
Staying in Fez is an opportunity to be surrounded by the pulsating energy of daily life and experience a riad, a traditional Moroccan house centered around a courtyard. It doesn't get more luxurious than Riad Fez, an award-winning Relais & Châteaux that beautifully blends heritage and contemporary comfort, all complemented by picturesque views of the Atlas Mountains. Suites draped in damask and zellij tiles, as well as an Ottoman-style spa, give the Karawan Riad a sumptuous character and a sense of serenity not often found in the chaos of the city walls.
Local guides I spoke with noted that hotels just outside the medina offer peace and quiet without sacrificing proximity to the heart of Fez. La Maison Bleue is a classic guesthouse with a relaxed atmosphere and a restaurant that serves recipes passed down from generation to generation. We booked a suite at the Faraj Palace and found it to be a charming and luxurious place to relax and very accessible to all the main sites.
Ultimately, even if you have a guide for the entire duration of your stay in Fez, there will likely be a few meals or unscheduled time to wander around on your own. The possibility of taking a wrong turn certainly exists, but don't let that deter you from doing some exploring without a guide. Lahani suggests carrying a piece of paper with your hotel and street address. Always ask older locals, who are more likely to know the area.
And remember: A straight line may be the shortest route between two points, but it's rarely the most memorable.
